Salt Wind and Long Afternoons at Anise & Ouzo

We stayed on a windswept stretch of Naxos coastline where cedar forests meet white sand. Three years later, we're still talking about going back.

We ate dinner outside on our last night. Just Stefanos and I, the table far too big for two, the sun dropping behind Paros. The sky was doing that thing it does in the Cyclades where the colours turn absurd. Apricot. Rose. Deep violet. We opened another bottle of wine. Nobody was checking the time.

This is what Anise & Ouzo does to you. It slows everything down. The Meltemi was blowing that evening, as it had been all week. That famous northern wind that sweeps across the Aegean in summer, cooling everything, rustling through the reeds, making the heat bearable. We had stopped noticing it by day three. It had just become part of the texture of being there.

The wine was local. The cheese was Naxian. We had spent days doing very little. Swimming. Reading. Napping in the shade. Bickering about whose turn it was to make coffee. The kind of holiday where you lose track of what day it is and do not care.

I remember thinking: this is what a Greek island holiday is supposed to feel like. This was 2022, and we have been talking about going back ever since.

A different corner of Naxos

Most visitors to Naxos stay near the port town of Chora or along the popular western beaches. Agios Prokopios. Agia Anna. Plaka. Fine choices, well-serviced, easy. But the further south you drive, the quieter things become. The beach clubs thin out. The roads narrow. The landscape turns wilder.

Anise & Ouzo sits on the southwest coast, at the southern end of Glyfada Beach where the sand meets the protected Alyko peninsula. The first time we walked to the water, through the garden and past the high reeds, we did not see another person for an hour.

The Alyko Nature Reserve is a Natura 2000 protected area. Around 1,000 acres of rare cedar forest, the trees shaped low and gnarled by centuries of salt wind, some over 200 years old. White sand dunes roll between them. No development. No beach bars. No umbrellas for hire. Just wild coastline and a silence that makes you realise how noisy everywhere else is.

The beach itself is extraordinary. Water so clear you can see your shadow on the bottom. A gentle slope into the sea that makes it perfect for children, or for adults who want to wade in slowly with a glass of something cold.

The houses themselves

Two white villas, low and clean-lined against the landscape. Luxe minimalist in the truest sense: pared back but never sparse, every detail considered. Anise and Ouzo sit side by side in a lush garden, sharing a 12-metre pool and a pergola that could seat twelve if you filled both houses. We had one to ourselves. It felt extravagant in the best way.

Each house is 90 square metres across two floors, sleeping six guests in three bedrooms. Far more space than two people need, which meant we could spread out. Books on every surface. A bedroom for sleeping, another for afternoon naps when the heat peaked.

The design is clever. Floor-to-ceiling doors that open at the touch of a remote, so the boundary between inside and outside dissolves completely. One moment you are in a living room, the next you are essentially on a terrace. Large mosquito nets replace glass in places, letting the Meltemi flow through. We never touched an air conditioner. We never needed to.

The interiors feel considered rather than decorated. Custom furniture built by a local carpenter. Earthy tones. Linen. Wood. Nothing flashy, nothing trying too hard. It’s understated luxury where you only notice the quality when you pay attention: the weight of the bedding, the pressure of the shower, the way the outdoor kitchen has everything you actually need to cook a proper meal.

We cooked most nights. The outdoor kitchen became the heart of the trip. One of us would walk to the mini-market down the road for tomatoes and feta. The other would pick herbs from the garden. The grill got used more than any other appliance. Simple meals, eaten late, the cicadas loud in the dark.

How the days unfolded

Mornings started slow. Coffee on the terrace, watching the light change over the water. Stefanos would head to the beach while it was still cool. I would emerge later, reaching for the espresso machine, taking my time.

By midday, we had migrated to the pool or the sea. The pool is beautifully positioned: long enough to swim proper lengths, surrounded by garden, shaded in places. We spent whole afternoons there, drifting between the water and the loungers, half-reading books, half-dozing.

The afternoons stretched. Time moved differently. One of us would suggest a walk along the beach to the cedar forest. The other would open wine at four and call it a late lunch. We stopped pretending we were going to be productive.

And then the evenings. Always the evenings. That golden hour when the heat softened and the light turned amber and we would sit on the terrace to watch the sun go down. This became ritual. Non-negotiable. The best part of every day.

For those who want to move

Not everyone wants to spend a week horizontal. Fair enough. Glyfada Beach sits at one of the best kitesurfing and windsurfing spots on Naxos. The Meltemi blows side-shore from the right, consistent and strong through summer. The water is flat enough for beginners, with waves further out for those who want them.

The owners have connections to Flisvos Sportclub, the surf school that has operated on Naxos for over three decades. Equipment can be delivered to the property before you arrive. Kitesurfing gear, windsurfing rigs, wing foils, stand-up paddleboards, mountain bikes. Storage is available in the garden shed. They will even arrange trolleys to get your kit to the beach.

Who built this place

Anise & Ouzo was created by three friends. Michaela de Wagt, a Dutch interior designer who moved to Naxos over two decades ago after falling in love with both the island and a man named Jan. Jan Andres, the most Greek-German person you will ever meet, who has run the Flisvos surf school for more than 30 years. And Remo Masala, who splits his time between Berlin and the island.

They bought the property just before the pandemic and spent the lockdowns reimagining it. Michaela obsessed over the details. The furniture was designed and built in collaboration with a local carpenter. The indoor-outdoor flow was engineered to maximise space and light. Every decision was made by people who actually live here, who understand the rhythms of the island, who know what works.

You can feel it. There is nothing generic about this place. No corporate hospitality playbook. Just taste, care, and the accumulated wisdom of people who have spent decades on this coastline.

If you leave (you might not want to)

Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades, and unlike some of its neighbours, it has a substantial interior. Mountain villages. Valleys. Farmland. The type of authentic Greece that has largely vanished from the more touristed islands.

We drove to Halki one afternoon, a village in the hills known for its old mansions and the Vallindras distillery, where they have been making kitron liqueur from citron leaves since 1896. We wandered the marble streets, bought olive oil from a tiny shop, ate lunch in a square shaded by plane trees. It felt like a different country from the beaches.

Filoti is worth the drive for the views alone. Apiranthos for its stone architecture and stubborn mountain character. Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades at 1,004 metres, offers hiking with views across half the Aegean. Naxos Town has the Portara, that iconic marble gate to the unfinished Temple of Apollo, and a waterfront lined with tavernas that stay open late.

But honestly, we did not leave much. The pull of the property was too strong. Every time we talked about an excursion, one of us would look at the pool, or the beach, or the wine chilling in the fridge, and the plan would dissolve.

Who should stay here

Families who want space. Groups of friends who want to share a week without being on top of each other. Water sports enthusiasts who want to roll out of bed and be on the water within minutes. Couples who want privacy and do not need a hotel's infrastructure. People who prefer hidden gems over star ratings.

This is not a place for anyone who needs constant entertainment or struggles without restaurants within walking distance. There is a taverna 500 metres away (Faros tou Alykou, very good) and a mini-market for supplies, but the assumption is that you will spend most of your time on the property, cooking, swimming, reading, talking.

If that sounds like heaven, it is.

The practical details

Prices start from €500 per night with a five-night minimum. The houses can be booked separately (six guests each) or together (twelve guests total). Available year-round, which is rare for the Cyclades and worth considering if you like dramatic light, empty beaches, and winter storms rolling in from the sea.

You will need a car. The property is 16 kilometres from Naxos Town, about 30 minutes from the port or airport. Rentals are available at both. The #3 bus runs to Glyfada and Alyko in summer, but frequencies drop off-season.

Book directly through aniseandouzo.com.

Getting to Naxos from Australia

Fly to Athens, then either take a connecting flight (25 minutes, up to six daily in summer on Olympic or Sky Express) or catch a ferry from Piraeus. The ferry is the better option if you have time. High-speed services take 3.5 to 4 hours. The slower Blue Star ferries take 5 to 6 hours but have outdoor decks where you can watch the Cyclades slide past with a coffee in hand.

Ferry tickets run €45 to €90 depending on speed and class. Book through Ferryhopper, especially in July and August when services fill up. Rafina port is closer to Athens Airport if you want to skip the city entirely.

Naxos is also an easy hop from Santorini (2 hours), Mykonos (45 minutes to 1.5 hours), or Paros (25 minutes). Island-hopping combinations write themselves.

Disclaimer: We received compensation for this stay.

Frequently asked questions

How many guests can stay at Anise & Ouzo?

Six per house, twelve if you book both. Each house has three bedrooms: one master double and four singles that can be configured as two doubles on request.


Can you book just one house?

Yes. Anise and Ouzo can be rented separately or together. Both share the pool and garden.

Is there a minimum stay?

Five nights.

Is the property open in winter?

Year-round, which is unusual for the Cyclades. Off-season visits are a completely different experience: moody light, deserted beaches, dramatic weather. Worth considering if you do not need guaranteed sunshine.


How far is the beach?

About 200 metres through the garden and dunes. You will be in the water within five minutes of deciding to swim.

Is there air conditioning?

The houses are designed to breathe. Large openings, mosquito nets instead of glass in places, cross-ventilation that catches the Meltemi. We never missed air conditioning. The wind does the work.

Is Anise & Ouzo suitable for children?

Very. The beach is shallow and safe, the garden is enclosed, the pool is shared but spacious. Baby cots available on request. Note that children in nappies are not permitted in the pool.

What is the best beach near Anise & Ouzo?

Glyfada Beach is directly in front of the property. The Alyko peninsula offers several more: Kedros (cedar forest, popular with naturists), Hawaii (dramatic cliffs, accessed by a short climb), and Alyko main beach (protected cove, easiest access). All within walking distance.

Can you rent water sports equipment?

Yes. The owners arrange kitesurfing, windsurfing and wing foil equipment through Flisvos Sportclub, delivered before your arrival. SUP boards and e-mountain bikes also available.

Is Glyfada Beach good for kitesurfing?

One of the best spots on Naxos. The Meltemi blows side-shore from the right, typically 4-6 Beaufort in summer. Fine white sand for easy launches. Flat water close to shore, waves further out.

Where is the nearest restaurant?

Faros tou Alykou is 500 metres away. A mini-market for groceries is 300 metres down the road. Most guests cook at the property, which has full indoor and outdoor kitchens with everything you need.

How does Anise & Ouzo compare to hotels in Naxos Town?

Different proposition entirely. This is a private villa on a quiet stretch of coast, not a hotel with daily service and a concierge desk. You cook your own meals, make your own schedule, have the beach largely to yourself. The trade-off is distance from restaurants and nightlife. If you want action, stay in Chora. If you want peace, come here.

Is the Alyko area safe for swimming?

Very. Glyfada Beach has a gentle slope, soft sand, and calm water. The Alyko beaches vary: some have rocky sections (bring swim shoes), but the main stretches are sandy and sheltered. No strong currents.

What should I know about the Alyko Nature Reserve?

A Natura 2000 protected area covering around 1,000 acres. Rare cedar forest, some trees over 200 years old. No development, no facilities, no beach clubs. Bring everything you need. Near Hawaii Beach, an abandoned hotel from the 1960s has become an open-air street art gallery.

What are the best luxury villas in south Naxos?

Anise & Ouzo is our pick for the Glyfada-Alyko area. The combination of beach access, design quality, and the wild setting of the nature reserve is hard to match. Alyko Villas is another option further along the coast.